The last two decades have been a huge leap forward for the restaurant scene in Kolkata, with impressive additions to what has long been considered the city#39;s traditional treasures. Not only in terms of geographical expansion, but it is the sea of hungry clientele, developing a discerning palate and their exposure to the world beyond. It has literally resulted in a boom in the industry. With a dazzling array of new, fresh places beaming with excitement, it is much about demand. This week, we stop for dinner at the two-month-old Fung Shway, a Pan Asian place replacing good ol#39; China Bowl near the Lakes and it strikes me hard: Are we genuinely interested in the food business or is it just about riding the wave?
next act up over this weekend.
DÉCOR
The spanking entrance on prominent Southern Avenue is right out onto the street giving a much welcome sense of light and space, just a door down from the popular vegetarian world cuisine space. Inside, it is a much smaller venue working on vertical levels. The fun of discovering niche seating at every level till we reach the third, keeps us amused. Regular faux leather white sofas with a sprinkling of Japanese umbrellas and Thai artefacts comprise the decor.
FOOD
We are introduced to the history of the brand. Fung Shway actually comes from the same stable as the erstwhile Twinkle Fung Shway on Dover Lane, Kolkata#39;s first Thai stand alone in the Eighties. It shut down, so did a few experiments on the way and now this new avatar. It is not only the cuisine which has been augmented here; the space is teeming with more service staff than customers, the menu as expected, is a mini booklet bursting at its seams and the pricing reaches into deep pockets. We order across Asian boundaries. Chinese Hawker#39;s Soup (Rs. 295), Steamed Prawns (Rs.700); Thai Papaya Salad (Rs.350), Crispy Whole Pomfret in Thai Herbal Sauce (Rs.600); Malaysian veg Stir fried Flat Noodles with aromatic Chilli Soya (Rs. 300) and Chicken Sweet and Sour curry (Rs.450); Japanese Pork Teppanyaki with Lemon Butter Soya (Rs.450). After much deliberation we are informed the prawns of our choice are not available, so we let the Korean Lamb Chops (Rs.525) replace it.
PLUS MINUS
The Hawker#39;s soup is thick and disappointing, no credit to the broth and the Thai Som Tam lacks lustre; the potent ingredients ground in a stone mortar pestle and splash of fish sauce genuinely missing. The lamb chops bring in dismay; undercooked, doused in barbecue sauce and a sprinkling of sesame. The Malaysian noodles is curried rather than stir fried and the promised chicken accompaniment comes in a thick slurry of spiced-up gravy, nothing matching the palatable sweet and sour description. The only bright spot of the meal is the crispy fried Pomfret in a tamarind soaked, lemongrass and galangal infused sauce. The final blow comes with the Pork Teppanyaki - through the dry, diced pieces of meat - an almost impossible result with grilling, broiling or pan-frying technique used by the professionals. We are compensated by a complimentary Caramelised Coconut ice cream (Rs. 200).
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